Kantha comprises of the simplest stitch in the language of
embroidery - the running stitch. It is the way in which this stitch is used, in
different arrangements, that forms the complex vocabulary of kantha. Originally
it was used to join layers of old saris, to make quilts. It was also used as a
means of self-expression by both urban and rural women in Bengal.
History of Kantha
The Sanskrit word kontha means 'rags.' One legend links
their origins to Lord Buddha and his disciples, who used to cover themselves
with garments made from discarded rags that were patched and sewn together.
Rags displayed at Indian shrines or tied to tree limbs symbolize prayers and
wards off the evil eye. The oldest extant kantha date from the early 1800s and
is embroidered with blue, black and red threads that were unraveled from sari
borders. Because they were salvaged from used garments that had been frequently
laundered, the colors tend to be muted.
There are seven different types of kantha:
·
Lep
kantha are rectangular wraps heavily padded to make warm coverlets. The
entire piece would be stitched in wavy, rippled designs over which simple
embroidery was executed.
·
Sujani
kantha are rectangular pieces of cloth used as blankets or spreads on
ceremonial occasions.
·
Baiton
kantha are square wraps used for covering books and other valuables. They
are elaborately patterned with borders of several rows of colorful designs.
·
Oaar
kantha are rectangular pillow covers in simple designs with a decorative
border sewn around the edges.
·
Archilata
kantha are small, rectangular covers for mirrors or toilet accessories with
wide, colorful borders in assorted motifs.
·
Durjani/thalia
kantha are small rectangles with a central lotus design and embroidered
borders. Three corners of the rectangle are folded inward to form a wallet.
·
Rumal
kantha are used as absorbent wipes or plate coverings. They also feature a
central lotus with ornamented borders.
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