The Kantha Embroidery is predominantly the most popular form
of embroidery practised by the rural women. The traditional form of Kantha
embroidery was done the soft dhotis and saris. The thread for this craft was
drawn out of the borders of the used cloth. Fewer layers of the cloth are used
to make clothes for other purposes. The outer layers of the cloth comprises of
white or light colored clothes which made the embroidery perceptible. The
embroidered cloth is used as stoles for women and shawls. The clothes also find
use as covers for mirrors, boxes, pillows etc. The entire cloth is covered with
running stitches and usually has beautiful folk motifs, floral motifs, animal
and birds figures and geometrical shapes. Themes from day to day activities are
also a common subject for the embroidery. Such stitches on the cloth give it a
slight wrinkled wavy effect. The contemporary Kantha is not necessarily done on
old multiple layered saris or dhotis. It can also be seen on the present day
garments like the sarees, dupatta, shirts for men and women, bedding and other
furnishing fabrics. For these fabrics and dresses the base fabric used is
cotton and silk.
Process and Techniques
The Process involves laying the worn clothes in layers and
stitching them together. The thread of the stitches is drawn from the old saree
borders. The design is first traced, then covered over with running stitches.
Kantha, has limitless designs, for every woman who works on it can make almost
any innovations that she fancies. But some basic traditional design usually
figure in the work. Another style of Kantha has a border with a repeat design
done in darning stitch giving it almost a weave. A good bit of Kantha is done
in white thread on a white background.
Type of Stitches
Archilata kantha are small, covers for mirrors or toilet
accessories with wide, colorful borders
Baiton kantha are square wraps used for covering books and
other valuables. They have elaborate
borders
Durjani/thalia: these
are quilted wallets made out of rectangular kantha pieces
Lep kantha are rectangular wraps heavily padded to make warm
quilts. The whole piece is stitched in a wavy pattern. Simple embroidery is
done on the finished quilt.
Oaar kantha are pillow covers in simple designs. A
decorative border is sewn afterwards.
Sujani kantha are decorative quilted kantha used as blankets
or spreads during religious rituals or other occasions. This started in 18th
century in Bihar
Rumal kantha are used as absorbent wipes or plate coverings.
They also feature a central lotus with ornamented borders.
The various patterns are called jaal, jhod, jhinga phool,
dhan chori, golak dhaga and many others all created by different placements of
the running stitch.
