Types of Kantha Embroidery

The Kantha Embroidery is predominantly the most popular form of embroidery practised by the rural women. The traditional form of Kantha embroidery was done the soft dhotis and saris. The thread for this craft was drawn out of the borders of the used cloth. Fewer layers of the cloth are used to make clothes for other purposes. The outer layers of the cloth comprises of white or light colored clothes which made the embroidery perceptible. The embroidered cloth is used as stoles for women and shawls. The clothes also find use as covers for mirrors, boxes, pillows etc. The entire cloth is covered with running stitches and usually has beautiful folk motifs, floral motifs, animal and birds figures and geometrical shapes. Themes from day to day activities are also a common subject for the embroidery. Such stitches on the cloth give it a slight wrinkled wavy effect. The contemporary Kantha is not necessarily done on old multiple layered saris or dhotis. It can also be seen on the present day garments like the sarees, dupatta, shirts for men and women, bedding and other furnishing fabrics. For these fabrics and dresses the base fabric used is cotton and silk.

Process and Techniques

The Process involves laying the worn clothes in layers and stitching them together. The thread of the stitches is drawn from the old saree borders. The design is first traced, then covered over with running stitches. Kantha, has limitless designs, for every woman who works on it can make almost any innovations that she fancies. But some basic traditional design usually figure in the work. Another style of Kantha has a border with a repeat design done in darning stitch giving it almost a weave. A good bit of Kantha is done in white thread on a white background.

Type of Stitches

Archilata kantha are small, covers for mirrors or toilet accessories with wide, colorful borders

Baiton kantha are square wraps used for covering books and other valuables. They have   elaborate  borders

Durjani/thalia:  these are quilted wallets made out of rectangular kantha pieces

Lep kantha are rectangular wraps heavily padded to make warm quilts. The whole piece is stitched in a wavy pattern. Simple embroidery is done on the finished quilt.

Oaar kantha are pillow covers in simple designs. A decorative border is sewn afterwards.

Sujani kantha are decorative quilted kantha used as blankets or spreads during religious rituals or other occasions. This started in 18th century in Bihar

Rumal kantha are used as absorbent wipes or plate coverings. They also feature a central lotus with ornamented borders.

The various patterns are called jaal, jhod, jhinga phool, dhan chori, golak dhaga and many others all created by different placements of the running stitch.